Surfing a Fiji

Panoramica

Almost nobody stands up gracefully on their first go, and that is half the fun. You fall off for a bit, then you ride some white water to the beach, and that is more or less that. You are a surfer now.

There is a myth about territorial locals guarding their break. Ignore it. The people teaching you are there because they like sharing it. Standing up is the easy part, and most people manage it on day one on a big foam board, known to everyone as a foamie. The real skill comes later: picking the right waves, timing your pop-up, and earning a spot out back on the unbroken face. That takes a while, which is rather the point.

The coaches on adventuro will put you on the right board and meet you wherever you are, first lesson or fiftieth. You get wet either way.

Domande frequenti

Yes. You will be in moving water, so you need to be a confident swimmer. Beginner lessons stay in waist-deep white water near the beach, but the sea always deserves respect.

Most people do. On a big foamie in white water, with someone calling the right moment, getting to your feet on day one is the norm. The tricky bit comes later, and that is the good bit.

A big, thick foam one. Surfers call them foamies and there is no shame in it. They float, they stay put, and they catch waves without much fuss. Start on a small hard board instead and you will spend the day swimming after it, which gets old fast.

Fit enough to paddle, which mostly comes with doing it. Lessons are paced for beginners, and the paddling quietly gets you fitter without you noticing.

Surfed within your ability at a sensible beach, the risks are well managed. Lessons teach you about waves, currents and surf etiquette, which is most of staying safe.

A wetsuit, almost always included with a lesson. In warm water you might get away with boardshorts or a swimsuit.

Move from white water to catching unbroken waves, then learn to paddle out back and read the sets. A few improver sessions or a surf camp speed this up no end.