Ribeira Brava sits in a steep valley on the eastern side of São Nicolau, out of sight of the sea. Settlers moved up here from the coast in the seventeenth century to escape pirate raids. For well over a century the town was home to the islands' bishop and one of Cabo Verde's most important schools, and its colonial houses and winding lanes still carry that air. The municipality covers most of the island, from the fertile Fajã plain to the old port of Preguiça, where a ruined fort still watches the quay.
Mountain trails and sea pools
Monte Gordo, the island's highest point at 1,312 metres, rises about 6 kilometres west of town inside a small natural park. Its upper slopes catch the mist, and the paths pass endemic plants you won't find on the drier islands. Well-marked hiking trails climb from the village of Cachaço, where dragon trees grow at the foot of the mountain. On the north-east coast, the village of Juncalinho has natural pools in the lava rock, good for wild swimming when the sea is calm. Carriçal, further east, has a sheltered little bay where turtles come ashore to nest.
Booking on adventuro
Ribeira Brava makes a good base for mountain walks, and the island's airport is only a few minutes away. Ferries dock at Tarrafal de São Nicolau, the port town over the hills to the south-west. Use the Book here tab to see live dates for guided walks on São Nicolau.