São Nicolau is a long, rugged island in the northern chain, with a mountain spine that peaks at Monte Gordo, 1,312 metres, in the west. About 12,000 people live here, farming the green uplands or fishing from the west coast, and tourism is small and personal. Ribeira Brava, the main town, was built far up a valley to keep it out of sight of pirates, and for more than 150 years it was the seat of Cabo Verde's Catholic bishops. It's an island for walkers who like empty paths and a slow pace.
Walking the island
Hiking is the main reason to come. The path up Monte Gordo starts near Cachaço, where dragon trees grow on the slopes. It climbs through eucalyptus woods in the natural park to a summit that looks out to Santa Luzia, São Vicente and Santo Antão on clear days. Another favourite winds from Praia Branca along steep ridges and through the rock spires of Ribeira da Prata to the farms of the Fajã plain. Ribeira Brava makes a good base for the valleys around town. Tarrafal de São Nicolau, on the west coast, has the ferry port, a fishing harbour and black-sand beaches, where locals bury themselves in the warm sand in the belief that it eases aching joints.
Getting there and how long to stay
The domestic airport sits between Ribeira Brava and Preguiça, and ferries from Mindelo reach Tarrafal in about four hours. Both run less often than on the bigger islands, so fix your dates around them and allow some slack. Stay in Ribeira Brava for the valleys or Tarrafal for the sea, and give the island three or four nights. It fits well on a northern islands trip with São Vicente and Santo Antão.
Booking on adventuro
Guided walks on Monte Gordo and across the island are arranged by local guides. Use the Book here tab to see live dates and prices.
