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Rising to 7,495 metres, Ismoil Somoni Peak is the highest mountain in Tajikistan and the tallest summit in the former Soviet Union. Combined with nearby Korzhenevskaya Peak at 7,105 metres, this expedition offers the opportunity to climb two of the most prestigious mountains in the Pamirs and make significant progress towards the Snow Leopard award.
Lasting 32 days, the expedition follows a carefully structured acclimatisation strategy designed for extreme altitude. Participants gradually progress through a series of camps, summiting Korzhenevskaya Peak before turning their attention to the ultimate objective: Ismoil Somoni Peak. This is a serious high-altitude expedition intended for experienced mountaineers seeking one of the greatest challenges available in Central Asia.
Extensive experience operating in the Pamirs allows the expedition team to manage the unique logistical and altitude-related challenges associated with climbing multiple 7,000-metre peaks. Every stage of the programme has been designed to maximise acclimatisation while maintaining flexibility for changing mountain conditions.
Support extends far beyond guiding alone. Helicopter transfers, camp logistics, safety systems, communications and route preparation are all coordinated to allow participants to focus on the climbing while benefiting from experienced expedition management throughout the journey.
The expedition begins in Dushanbe before travelling overland to Jirgital. After an overnight stay, a helicopter flight transports the team directly to Moskvin Glade Base Camp at approximately 4,300 metres.
Several days are spent acclimatising, organising equipment and conducting rope training. The spectacular surroundings provide the first views of both Korzhenevskaya Peak and Ismoil Somoni Peak while participants begin adapting to life at altitude.
The first major objective is Korzhenevskaya Peak. A series of acclimatisation rotations gradually introduces participants to higher elevations, including camps at 5,100 metres, 5,600 metres and 6,100 metres.
Following recovery at Base Camp, the summit push begins. Climbers ascend through the higher camps before making a summit attempt on Korzhenevskaya Peak at 7,105 metres. After reaching the summit, the team returns to Base Camp for rest and recovery before preparing for the main objective.
Several days are reserved for rest and acclimatisation before beginning the second phase of the expedition.
This recovery period is crucial before moving towards Ismoil Somoni Peak, allowing participants to regain strength while maintaining altitude adaptation gained during the first summit.
Attention turns towards the highest mountain in the Pamirs. The route progresses through a series of camps positioned along glaciers, ridges and high mountain plateaus.
Key stages include crossing the Walter Glacier, traversing the famous Pamir Firn Plateau and climbing Dushanbe Peak at approximately 6,950 metres as part of the final acclimatisation process. Following a final rest day at high camp, participants attempt Ismoil Somoni Peak at 7,495 metres, the highest point in the former Soviet Union.
Once the summit attempt is complete, the expedition descends through the camps before returning to the comfort of Base Camp.
Three reserve days have been included to accommodate weather delays, route adjustments or additional summit opportunities.
Following the expedition, a helicopter returns the team to Jirgital before the transfer back to Dushanbe. The journey concludes after more than a month in one of the world's great high-altitude mountain ranges.
Throughout the expedition, accommodation varies between hotels, village lodgings, Base Camp facilities and high-altitude mountain camps.
Base Camp at Moskvin Glade offers tent or cabin accommodation, communal dining areas, electricity during limited hours and communication facilities. Higher on the mountain, participants stay in expedition tents positioned at strategic camps used during both summit attempts.
This expedition is intended for experienced high-altitude mountaineers who already have significant experience on major alpine or expedition peaks. Previous ascents above 6,000 metres are strongly recommended.
The combination of duration, altitude and multiple summit objectives makes this one of the most demanding mountaineering expeditions in Central Asia.
Although the technical difficulty is moderate compared with some alpine objectives, the altitude creates a substantial challenge. Climbers spend extended periods above 6,000 metres and must function effectively in a remote high-altitude environment.
Success depends heavily on fitness, acclimatisation, previous expedition experience and favourable weather conditions.
The expedition is generally suitable for participants aged 18 and over due to the extreme altitude and physical demands involved.
If younger participants wish to join, please send a request before booking. Previous mountaineering experience and overall suitability can then be assessed individually.
The Snow Leopard is one of the most respected mountaineering achievements in the former Soviet Union. It is awarded to climbers who successfully summit all five recognised 7,000-metre peaks within the region.
Both Korzhenevskaya Peak and Ismoil Somoni Peak form part of this prestigious challenge.
The helicopter flight significantly reduces the time required to access the remote mountain region. Without air access, reaching Moskvin Glade would require a much longer and more complex approach.
The transfer also allows climbers to begin acclimatisation sooner and maximise the time available for the expedition.
Accommodation combines hotels in Dushanbe, village lodging in Jirgital, Base Camp facilities at Moskvin Glade and high-altitude expedition camps on the mountains.
Base Camp offers the most comfortable conditions of the expedition, with meals, communication facilities and limited electricity available. Higher camps are considerably more basic and involve sleeping in expedition tents throughout the summit phases.
Moskvin Glade Base Camp is located at approximately 4,300 metres above sea level.
Even at Base Camp, many participants begin to notice the effects of altitude, which is why several acclimatisation days are included before moving higher onto the mountain.
You'll need proven high-altitude mountaineering experience, including previous climbs above 6,000 metres and familiarity with glacier travel, fixed ropes and multi-day expedition life.
Strong cardiovascular fitness and the ability to perform at altitude over extended periods are essential for both summit objectives on this programme.
Participants need a valid Tajikistan visa and appropriate mountaineering permits, which the expedition team helps coordinate as part of the programme.
You'll also need comprehensive insurance covering high-altitude mountaineering and helicopter evacuation. We can advise on paperwork requirements before you travel.
Yes. The expedition is structured to summit Korzhenevskaya Peak first, followed by a recovery period and then the attempt on Ismoil Somoni Peak.
This sequence allows you to gain altitude experience on the first summit while building towards the higher and more demanding second objective.
Ysyk-Köl Region (Issyk-Kul), Kyrgyzstan
From €4950
Ysyk-Köl Region (Issyk-Kul), Kyrgyzstan
From €4800
About the centre
Dushanbe
You'll join experienced mountain guides for high-altitude expeditions, technical climbing and ski touring across the Caucasus, Central Asia, the Alps and the Andes. Programmes are built around careful acclimatisation, glacier skills and small group ratios so you can progress safely toward major summits and remote ski objectives.
Whether you're aiming for a first 7,000-metre peak, a classic Alpine ascent or a backcountry ski week, you'll get structured preparation, camp logistics and hands-on coaching from guides who know these ranges intimately. Every trip is planned with weather flexibility, clear kit guidance and support from arrival through to summit day and descent.
Operated by Rock n Snow, a partner of adventuro.
