São Filipe is the capital of Fogo and one of the oldest towns in Cabo Verde, spread across a clifftop on the island's west coast. Its old centre, Bila Baxo, is full of sobrados, balconied mansions built in the nineteenth century when coffee and wine brought the town new wealth. From the clifftop you look straight down on Praia da Bila, a long beach of black volcanic sand, and out across the channel to Brava. The airport sits on the edge of town, and the ferry port at Vale de Cavaleiros is about 4 kilometres north.
A town between the sea and the volcano
Mornings are the best time to wander the lanes of Bila Baxo, before the heat builds and while the market is busy. The island's big outing is the climb of Pico do Fogo from Chã das Caldeiras, a winding drive up into the crater, and guided hikes usually include the transfer from town. Around 1 May, the Bandeira festival fills the streets with drums and horse races. Wine from the crater turns up on menus all over town.
Booking on adventuro
São Filipe is the most practical base on Fogo, with the airport and ferry close by. Many people spend a night here before heading up to Chã das Caldeiras, and the ferry to Brava leaves from the port just north of town. Use the Book here tab to see live dates for volcano climbs that start from town.
