Pakistan-administered Kashmir centres on Muzaffarabad, where the Neelum and Jhelum rivers meet. The wider Kashmir region is disputed between India and Pakistan. From the city, the Neelum valley road climbs north past Keran, where the river itself forms the Line of Control. Further up, Sharda has the ruins of an ancient temple and seat of learning above the village. Kel, in the upper valley, is the starting point for Arang Kel, a village on a meadow high above the river. To the south, the Leepa valley has rice fields and apple orchards, and Banjosa Lake sits in pine forest near Rawalakot.
What you can do
At Kel, a cable car crosses the river and a steep path climbs for about an hour to Arang Kel, where simple guesthouses let you stay the night. Higher up the valley, licensed jeeps run from Dowarian most of the way to Ratti Gali Lake at about 3,700 metres, and the last stretch is on foot through wildflower meadows. The Leepa valley is quieter, with walks between farming villages. Near Rawalakot, Banjosa Lake has easy paths through the pines, and the meadows of Toli Pir give long views over the hills. Several villages on these routes sit close to the Line of Control, so check current official travel advice and go with a local operator who knows Azad Jammu and Kashmir.
Booking on adventuro
Most Neelum trips run from May to October and start in Islamabad or Muzaffarabad. Use the Book here tab to see live dates and prices from local centres.
