How long should I spend on Santiago?

Four or five days lets you see Praia and Cidade Velha, spend a day or two walking in Serra Malagueta and finish with a swim at Tarrafal. With only a night or two, stay in the capital and take a half day at Cidade Velha. Many visitors also use Santiago as the jumping-off point for Fogo, Brava or Maio.

What is the hiking like in Serra Malagueta?

It's the best walking on Santiago, on ridges that often catch the cloud and stay green when the lowlands are dry. The easiest route is a fairly level loop towards the Malagueta peak with views to the coast. Harder trails drop steeply into the Ribeira Principal valley, where farmers grow fruit on terraced slopes. Start early for the clearest views.

Is Cidade Velha worth visiting?

Yes, even on a short stay. It was the first European settlement in the tropics and a major port in the Atlantic slave trade. You can trace that history through the ruined cathedral, the stone pillory in the square and the fort on the hill above town. It's a short drive west of Praia, so a half day is enough for most people.

Can I get to Fogo and Maio from Santiago?

Yes, Praia is the hub for both. Short domestic flights and ferries run to each island, with the crossing to Maio taking about two hours and the one to Fogo about four. Timetables change with the season, so check them before you book tours. Brava is one more ferry beyond Fogo, about an hour from the port near São Filipe.

Things to do in Santiago

Overview

Santiago is the biggest island and the first to be settled, and about half of Cabo Verde's people live here. It has a busier, working feel than the resort islands, with shared minibuses running between market towns. Praia, the capital, grew up on the Plateau, a flat-topped hill of colonial streets above the harbour. Inland the island climbs into green mountains, topped by Pico de Antónia at almost 1,400 metres, before dropping to the beaches of the north coast.

Praia, Cidade Velha and the interior

Start in Praia, where the Plateau has the main square and the presidential palace. A short drive west, Cidade Velha, the main town of Ribeira Grande de Santiago, was the first European town in the tropics, and its hilltop fort and ruined cathedral are a UNESCO World Heritage Site. The main road north climbs through São Domingos to São Lourenço dos Órgãos, home to the national botanical garden beside the Órgãos peaks. Pico de Antónia rises beside Picos, the main town of São Salvador do Mundo, the country's smallest municipality.

Serra Malagueta and the north

Assomada, the market town of Santa Catarina, is the gateway to the Serra Malagueta natural park. Its hiking trails follow forested ridges to the 1,064-metre peak or drop into the fruit orchards of the Ribeira Principal valley. On the east coast, Calheta is the main town of São Miguel, and banana and coconut groves surround Pedra Badejo in Santa Cruz. At the northern tip, Tarrafal has a curve of pale sand in a sheltered bay, one of the island's best places to swim.

Getting there and where to stay

Nelson Mandela airport is on the edge of Praia, with international flights and domestic links to the other islands. Ferries from Praia reach Fogo in about four hours and Maio in about two. Spend a night or two in the capital, then move to Assomada or Tarrafal for the hills and the beach. Four or five days covers the island well.