Climb the iconic Matterhorn in this 5-day program, designed to help mountaineers tackle this challenging ascent with proper acclimatisation and skill-building. The route covers a series of classic climbs, including Arête des Cosmiques and Aiguilles d'Entrèves, with a focus on improving your alpine techniques and building physical endurance to ascend the Matterhorn.
Day 1: Arête des Cosmiques IV 250m (Aiguille du Midi)
The day begins with a meeting at the Aiguille du Midi ticket office, followed by an ascent to 3,842 meters. After a gear check, we'll make our way to the base of the Arête des Cosmiques to climb this Chamonix classic. Upon completion, we’ll traverse over to the Italian side using the Panoramic cable car, arriving at the Torino refuge at 3,375 meters. After settling in, we will rest for the night in preparation for the next day.
Day 2: Traversée des Aiguilles d’Entrèves (Aiguille d'Entrèves 3,604m)
Starting from the refuge, we’ll traverse the glacier roped together, heading towards the ridge's base. The middle section of the climb offers exposed terrain, requiring focus and attention. After reaching the summit, we'll rappel down and retrace our steps to the refuge. Alternatively, the route can be accessed via the Mont Blanc Tunnel and Skyway cable car.
Day 3: Zermatt-Schwarzsee - Refuge Hörnli (3,260m)
We’ll set off from Chamonix to Zermatt, taking a scenic drive followed by a rack railway to Zermatt town. Once there, we’ll travel to Schwarzsee and ascend to the Hörnli Refuge (3,260 meters). This scenic hike offers excellent views of the Matterhorn and prepares us for the climb ahead. After reaching the refuge, we’ll enjoy dinner and prepare for the summit push.
Day 4: Climbing Matterhorn (4,478m) by the Hörnli Ridge
An early start from Hörnli Refuge will see us begin the ascent to the summit. Using fixed ropes, we’ll navigate snow and rock sections before reaching the Solvay Refuge at 4,003 meters. After a brief rest, we’ll tackle the final section of the ridge to the summit. The descent involves rappelling down steep sections and retracing our steps. If time permits, we’ll catch the cable car down to Zermatt, or spend the night at the Hörnli Refuge.
Day 5: Extra Day
An additional day is reserved to account for potential delays, such as bad weather or a late finish the previous day. If needed, we’ll spend the night at the Hörnli Refuge or Schwarzsee Hotel, ensuring a safe return to Chamonix.
The climb spans two of the most renowned locations in the Alps, starting in Chamonix, France, before crossing into Switzerland. Chamonix, situated in the Mont Blanc Massif, is a historic mountaineering hub, offering direct access to some of the most famous alpine climbs in the world.
From Chamonix, you'll take the Aiguille du Midi cable car to begin the ascent of the Arête des Cosmiques, which provides amazing views of the surrounding peaks. The journey continues with a traverse into Italy via the Torino refuge, before heading to Zermatt, located at the foot of the Matterhorn in Switzerland.
Zermatt serves as the starting point for the Hörnli Ridge, the most famous route to the Matterhorn summit. Schwarzsee, located at an altitude of 2,583 metres, is the next stop before reaching the Hörnli Refuge for the final push to the summit.
During the expedition, accommodation will be in mountain refuges on a half-board basis. The first two nights will be spent at the Torino Refuge, located at 3,375 metres, offering comfortable dormitory-style rooms and stunning views of the surrounding peaks.
On the third night, we will stay at the Hörnli Refuge at 3,260 metres, positioned at the base of the Matterhorn, providing a convenient starting point for the ascent. These refuges offer basic but comfortable lodging, with meals included.
If needed, an additional night may be spent at the Hörnli Refuge or the Schwarzsee Hotel, depending on weather conditions or the timing of the descent.
Participants must possess strong alpine climbing skills, including experience in rock climbing and scrambling. Physical fitness for prolonged ascents is essential, with a tolerance for high-altitude environments.
Prior experience in high-altitude alpine routes is advised, especially if you're unfamiliar with longer climbs in the AD range.
Isra and Omar are highly skilled and experienced mountaineers who have spent years exploring and guiding in the Chamonix and Zermatt regions. Their expertise in high-altitude alpine routes ensures that participants will receive personalised instruction and guidance throughout the programme. Both are certified mountain guides, with extensive experience in leading climbers through some of the Alps' most demanding terrain.
Their focus on individual progress and safety means that, regardless of the challenge, climbers can trust their professional guidance every step of the way. With a strong emphasis on building skills, knowledge, and confidence, Isra and Omar provide the perfect environment for climbers looking to conquer the Matterhorn.
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About the centre
Aiguille du Midi, France
Operated by KooKoo Climb, a partner of adventuro.
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